Monday, March 1, 2010



Carp Fishing Tactics For Wary Fish - Hiding Your Line!

Posted: 01 Mar 2010 06:43 AM PST

Carp Fishing Tactics For Wary Fish - Hiding Your Line!
by: Tim Richardson


On many carp waters the fish are well aware of fishermen's lines passing through the water. This can impact so much on fish that in some swims fish will not feed until the swim appears safe and clear of lines. They have associated lines with danger often from many years of angling pressure. But what can you do about it?

Seeing your line passing through water can really hit your confidence. If you can see it, the fish certainly can. Carp eyesight is not to be underestimated! How often have you observed fish heading for your swim, only to see your line and turn around? Heavy lines are often required in many situations, so trying to use 'invisible' like very fine ones or certain ones with less abrasion resistance makes things hard. There are a couple of new lines that claim to be invisible in water. The trouble is that even these can go along the lake bed and form a barrier of line across the water, where the bottom dips and rises, or where going over weed beds.

The last 5 metres of line to your hook rig is the area that usually matters the most. Here fish often bump into lines in their search for food or bait and the first obvious mistake many anglers make is ensuring fish get spooked by their lines by baiting-up between their hook and rig and their rod, the very side where line is most apparent. Only baiting-up the opposite side can make a dramatic difference!

Of course, lots of methods have evolved to try to avoid spooking fish out of your swim or even stop them from stopping feeding in the possible case of some line shy fish, and having them leave your swim. Your line also helps fish to locate your hook rig which is not favourable for bites! The days when fish feed avidly while navigating a network of lines stretched across the water in full view are fading on so many waters these days. The use of back leads and flying back leads to pin the line to the lake bed are good. But on weedy waters and those with lots of rises and falls as in gravel pits for example, they are not really the solution.

Lead core spiced to the line and heavy dense tubing on the line helps to some degree with this problem, but are not perfect, no matter if their colour matches the lake bed or has been marked so that it forms a 'broken disjointed line' or a 'camouflaged' one. Often the fish just learn that these are extra thick lines which are also dangerous. Ordinary plastic tubing is still sold for use as anti-tangle tubing but often is used fresh from the packet which means it still forms bends and loops on the lake bed!

The best way I found to use heavy dense tubing like the 'ESP' range, was to find the thinnest one possible I could fit over my line, slide it onto the line and then stretch it out as long as possible. I even used multiple lengths of it as I found multiple lengths hugged the bottom even better than just using the thinner more flexible stretched tube. Gluing tiny pieces of shot or lead putty materials to these really made a massive difference to results. If I could, I'd use a 4 metre length of tubing to pin the line down; combined with as many back leads I could add practically along the length of the line. Pressured smaller water fish are often even more spooked by lines and these tricks have proven the difference between catching nothing at all and catching forties with regularity.

Not many anglers realise that if you fish a tight line pinned very effectively to the lake bed with multiple back leads on the line as far down as possible teamed with a heavy sinker lead on the line, your initial deep hooking potential can be hugely improved. Your combined resistance of weight on the line might be nearer 6 ounces often tripping-up and converting a single bleep on the alarm to full blooded runs or at least a couple more tell-tale bleeps as fish struggled to rid the hook. I sharpen my hooks literally beyond needle sharp spending hours on this task. A few times I lost some very big fish as the points bent out with the pressure, but I'm certain these might not have been hooked without this preparation anyway.

I also choose the longest point hooks from a packet because these gain the fast deepest hook-hold initially. Those hooks with a long straight point, in turned eye and a penetration angle of 26 degrees have been exceptionally effective for gaining good deep very reliable hook holds anywhere in the mouth. I have used heavy wire Kamasan models of this type in size 4 for years with great success. (I subsequently discovered another angler found the same positive results with hooks with these characteristics as was written in the spring 2007 B.C.S.G. magazine.

I always scrap off all the golden covering and soak hooks in water in advance. I'm sure this helps not just visually, but help the hook 'blend' in the water electrically better... (Covering the hook in paste is an accidental edge which is great for wary fish; most anglers coat the bait only.) Some Ashima hooks have virtually identical characteristics in a thinner wire but are much harder to sharpen and tend to be brittle.

Years ago, before lines like "Big Game" became fashionable I remember fishing using sea line as leaders. The logic was that if fish spooked off the slim 8 pound German line I was using at the time because they could feel it but not see it so well, then why not use a thick line they can see? The point is that no-one else was doing this on waters I fished, so the fish had no reason to fear a thick 60 pound line passing through the water! It really multiplied catches over-night too! I made sure the fish could see this line which was brown.

It was a method which worked well wherever I fished at that time in the late eighties. I went onto using heavy braid as leaders as I noticed that some thicker cheaper ones absorbed the silt of the bottom and 'disappeared' as it were. On clearer weedy lakes, using braid which was marked in browns, greens, and black to break up its appearance worked very well, when everyone else was using that horrible shocking white "Big Game" line, usually in 15 pound strength. A tight line was used with my very heavy monofilament leaders and a slack line approach with braid leaders.

Braid worked even better with shot pinched onto the line at 6 inch intervals for a distance of at least 8 feet from the rig. Fixed leads were used and 2 ounce leads were tied to a rig swivel using 2 pound line and round eyed bombs and Arlesey leads were used. Results noticeably improved using leads which were flattened with a hammer to make them grip the bottom better to secure a better hook hold. This was prior to the square leads becoming popular.

Often a spot in a swim is the only place that fish will feed and take a bait, but fish may not feed or spook out if lines are detected. Often changing the angle and direction your line enters the swim can make all the difference. Sometimes it even means using a float to get your line right out of the water a few feet from your rig. Even a stick with float rubbers to attach the line can be used. Sometimes free-lining with nothing but a hook on your line is very useful too. A very light running link ledger is an almost forgotten method in these days of so-called wonder 'anti-eject, self-hooking' rigs, but can produce extremely satisfying confident takes where heavy 4 or even 5 ounce leads are being used by carp as the pivot or fulcrum to rid themselves of hooks repeatedly every day!

Carp may or may not have long memories or attention spans but they can certainly learn fast. I've done well at long range using a 3 foot long 'confidence rig' on a light running lead with a short back-stop. The 6 or 8 inch standard rig is so often used by the average angler that it can becomes anti-productive, especially for the warier fish, especially where an angler is using a popular commercial boilie or pellet bait they have been hooked on previously. It so pays to be different and work at it.

I tried soaking my leads and tubing in attractors which helped results. I'm sure tubing has negative chemicals it gives off when first used, so why not do something to make it attractive instead. Tying flavour capsules full of attractors to your leads works too. I started doing this in the winter especially, but carried on doing it regardless of season. Using a large PVA bag of baits to gain distance when fishing very light leads works well too. The use of method mixes and floats to hold and deposit attractive ground bait which accurately feeds your bait from above is a very effective one but not just limited to fishing 'zig-rig' style either. How many anglers have tried fishing a sinking ground bait and a buoyant ground bait rising from below simultaneously with a buoyant paste hook bait?

As an aside, small PVA net stockings with micro pellets and crumbled baits soaked in oil based attractors are plastered all over the magazines and this now an old method on many pressured waters. But how many anglers tie up multiple bags and tie them 2 or 3 to the hook and lead? You can even do this with solid bags and exploit more buoyant ingredients like prawn and krill meal to produce a surface baiting effect as you bags rise in the water and melt so releasing their ground bait type contents in a more scattered way over your rig... (The possibilities and potential here are rarely used!)

Tubing often has the added benefit of protecting your line against snags and abrasive things like sharp gravel bars, mussels and any rough branches or any nasty surprises like metal snags in the water etc. Sometimes rope is what is really needed, so why not use it.

I saw an article recently where someone was using thick string or thin rope as a leader specifically because it was supple and absorbed the materials and sediments of the lake bed, so rendering the 'line' far less likely to be associated with a rig and danger by fish. Of course, soaking your 'rope leader' preferably in amino acid based additives, betaine and salt before casting, makes it sink immediately and actually helps draw fish to your hook bait. There are other very exciting options for hiding your line which involve line absorbing the materials on the bottom and doing this is extremely effective. See if you can think of some; you might want to keep them to yourself!

The author has many more fishing and bait 'edges' any of which can have a huge impact on your catches.

By Tim Richardson.

About The Author
Tim Richardson is a homemade carp and catfish bait-maker, and proven big fish angler. His bait making and bait enhancing books / ebooks are even used by members of the "British Carp Study Group" for reference. View this dedicated bait secrets website now...

For the unique and acclaimed new massive expert bait making / enhancing 'bibles' ebooks / books:


Choosing A Saltwater Fish Tank

Posted: 01 Mar 2010 12:08 AM PST

Choosing A Saltwater Fish Tank
by: Alison Stevens

What to Look For in a Saltwater Fish Tank

The decision to purchase a saltwater or marine fish tank for your home or office should not be taken lightly. Marine fish will have requirements far greater than freshwater fish. However, once you've decided to purchase a saltwater aquarium you'll be rewarded with a stunning range of tropical and reef fish to choose from.

But first you'll need to purchase your tank. The selection process can be time consuming and confusing because the range of tanks available is large. The best advice is usually to purchase the largest tank you can afford and that will fit in the available space. There are numerous stories of people starting out their fish tank hobby with a small fish tank only to find in a short space of time that they wish they had purchased a larger tank!

A 30-gallon saltwater aquarium is probably the smallest tank you should consider. A fish tank of this size will provide sufficient surface area to allow adequate exchange of oxygen into the water and to provide a comfortable swimming environment for your fish.

The oxygen supply in the water together with the water temperature will determine the success or otherwise of your fish keeping hobby. Tropical saltwater fish require a water temperature of about 75 degrees F. The warmer water in the saltwater aquarium will tend to deplete the oxygen in the water which means that the surface area becomes important. The addition of aeration equipment is usually desirable to increase the oxygen concentration. Aeration can usually be provided in conjunction with your filtration equipment.

Saltwater fish tanks are available in both acrylic and glass. There are advantages and disadvantages to both. Some of the advantages of glass aquariums are
* Glass fish tanks are usually cheaper than acrylic tanks
* Glass fish tanks are more scratch resistant than acrylic tanks
* Glass fish tanks won't discolor with age
* Glass fish tanks won't require as much brace support as acrylic tanks although the stand needs to be able to support a great weight

Advantages of acrylic fish tanks
* Acrylic fish tanks are lighter in weight than glass fish tanks
* Acrylic fish tanks can be custom made in a shape to suit your home
* Acrylic fish tanks are less likely to break
* Acrylic fish tanks can be purchased online

Setting Up Your Saltwater Fish Tank

Bringing your new saltwater fish tank home from the store is only the first step. Never be tempted to purchase fish at the same time that you acquire your aquarium. There are many steps to complete prior to introducing fish to their new home.

First, you need to install your tank in its desired location. Avoid locating your saltwater fish tank in any spot that receives sunlight. Sunlight will cause algae to grow in your tank and whilst this will not usually harm the fish it is unsightly and spoils the appearance of your aquarium. Also avoid any locations close to room heaters or where the tank will be exposed to drafts.

Many acrylic fish tanks come with a built-in stand. Glass tanks will require a sturdy stand and should have a layer of polystyrene or rubber placed between the tank and the stand to absorb any unevenness. If the tank is unbalanced it will eventually crack.

Check your new tank for leaks. Fill it with water and let is stand for a day or two. Once you have confirmed that it is water tight you will need to thoroughly clean the tank and all equipment. Rinse thoroughly. Do not skip the cleaning and rinsing step just because you've purchased a new tank and it appears sparkling clean. Your fish will die if there are any contaminants left in the tank! Don't forget to wash the gravel before adding it the tank. Add all your other equipment in accordance with the manufacturer's directions. Your pet store will have provided advice on how to set up your saltwater fish tank.

After you have added your salt water and confirmed that the salt and chemical levels are correct you'll need to run all your equipment for at least 72 hours to filter and heat your water and stabilize your tank. Let the aquarium cycle to build up the correct biological levels.

The hardest part of setting up your saltwater fish tank is now complete and now you'll be able to go and select your colorful fish!

About The Author
Alison Stevens is an online author and maintains the website to assist anyone who wants to get started with setting up an aquarium fish tank and gain an understanding of fresh and saltwater fish tank maintenance.

How To Avoid Cloudy Fish Tank Water!

Posted: 28 Feb 2010 09:30 AM PST

How To Avoid Cloudy Fish Tank Water!
by: Joe Slavin

One of the major explanations why numerous individuals on a global basis have become infatuated by fish tanks is that they can give you an easily attained basis of relief and leisure for a small amount of your time, outlay and exertion. Considering everything, what other hobby can give you similar benefits that a fish tank can, over the same period of time for similar expenditure?

One aspect that people tend to overlook is the necessity of fish tank care so that the duty of the proper cleaning is carried out to ensure a proper hygiene level which is an essential for the health and wellbeing of your pet fish. If you neglect this essential cleaning regime, you put your fish in jeopardy and end up with a cloudy fish tank. The primary element that has a major influence and has a vital role in making sure that your fish and other marine creatures and foliage enjoy a greater standard of well being and contentment which consequently provides us with the pleasure of viewing them for a long time in the future.

Over time, black algae can form on the sides of the tank and along with uneaten food which accumulates in the gravel at the bottom of the tank will become a cleaning issue. The solution is to confront the likely dilemma prior to it occurring by using fish which eat algae and fish which swim and feed at the bottom of the tank, cat fish are an example of these species. These help in your fight against debris building up on the bottom and algae being allowed to get out of control on the sides of the tank. There are certain aquarium life that we class as scavengers of various forms, ranging from small to moderate sises of fish to little crabs. All of these creatures do a certain task and you will have to make the right choice. The most of these will gorge themselves on the black algae which in turn helps to limit it. You have to be alert as to how the different varieties of fish react with others, because the bigger ones tend to display aggressive behavior and can even devour the little fish.

With these points taken, you will need to keep an eye on the chemistry of the aquarium water and take out say 10% and add 10% fresh water at a time. Fish do not like big changes and that is why it is recommended to slowly replace it rather than all at once. This important time spent on fish tank care will benefit you in the long run and prevent problems such as black algae and having a cloudy fish tank causing your fish to become unwell.

About The Author
To find out more information about aquariums and other related fish tank items have a look at the selection at


Posted: 28 Feb 2010 09:07 AM PST


Origin, morphology and Manfis Fish Habit
Manfish or also known by the term 'Angel fish' comes from the waters of the Amazon, South America. Manfish (Pterophyllum scalare) belonging to the family Cichlidae, have morphological traits and habits as follows:
- Having the color and type of the variable
- Flat body shape, with a body like an arrow
- Belly fins and flippers stretched back to the tail width, so that appears as a dark arc transparent
- In the chest there are two long fins that hang down to the tail.
- Maintain and protect their offspring.
- As a omnivorus
- Lncluded easy to accept various types of foods in various forms and sources of

Some types of fish Manfish known and has been developed in Indonesia among others are: Diamond (Diamond), Imperial, Marble and Black-White.

Diamond (Diamonds), shiny silver-gray to green. At the top of the head is yellow to dark brown that along to the back. Manfish Imperial has a silver base color, but her body decorated with four black vertical lines / dark brown. Marble Manfish have mixed colors of black and white vertical lines forming. While manfish Black-White has a black color decorate the back half of his body, and white colors adorn the front half including the head.

Parent Management
Manfish fish can be a parent after age 7 months to reach the length ± 7.5 cm. To achieve optimal results, the parent must be properly managed for example by feeding good as mosquito larvae, Tubifex worms, or Chironomous. Also because the parent fish is very sensitive to manfish disease, the treatment should be given periodic drug commonly used drugs such as Oxytetracycline and salt.

Before married, the mother maintained manfish mass (male and female) in the first 1 large aquarium (size 100x60x60 cm3). After the mature egg, the parent manfish will pair up and separate from other fish. Parent who was able to pair it and dipijahkan taken place.

Moreover, it can be done, namely the parent manfish pair directly after learning of male and female parent. Characterized by male parental body size larger than the female parent. Parent male head looks a bit large part of the mouth to the convex dorsal fins, and more slender body shape than the female fish. While the mother is characterized by the size of the smaller body and form a smaller head with part of a larger belly / fat and looks slightly bulging.

Spawning Technique

Spawning conducted in an aquarium measuring 60x50x40 cm3 with water level ± 30 cm. Into the aeration tank is provided for the supply of oxygen.
Manfish fish eggs would stick to a smooth substrate, such as pieces of PVC pipe that had been prepared / are placed in the aquarium spawning. Because the fish tend to like the atmosphere manfish dark and quiet, so the aquarium can be attached wall paper or dark colored plastic.

Parent manfish will multiply at night. Mother put her eggs on the substrate and followed by the male fish sperm sprayed on all the eggs, so that the eggs are fertilized. The number of eggs produced per parent ranged between 500-1000 eggs. During the breeding period, the parent still be in the form of feed Tubifex worms, Chironomous or Daphnia.

The eggs hatch and larvae Maintenance

Eggs are attached to the substrate, then transferred to the aquarium hatching eggs (measuring 60x50x40 cm3) for hatched. At hatching medium water should be added to anti-fungal drugs, among others Methyline Blue with a dose of 1 ppm. To maintain stable temperature, then into the egg incubation medium used water heater (water heater) is installed at 27-28oC temperature.

Manfish eggs will hatch after 2-3 days, with the degree of hatching eggs ranged 70-90%. Next paralon the attachment is removed and egg-larval treatment until the age ± 2 weeks.

The feed is provided for the maintenance of the larval form of natural feed in accordance with the larval mouth opening and has a high protein content, among others nauplii Artemia sp. The feed was given 2 times a day (morning and afternoon) until the larvae ± 10 days old and continued with the provision of Tubifex worms.
Pendederan and Enlargement

After age ± 2 weeks, the seed spacing can be done to then do pendederan until one month-old fish.

The next step is to harvest the seeds to move into the tub / container enlargement. In this case can be used like a fiber-cement or the like, depending on the available container. During the rearing period, try to ensure a flow of water into the container, although slightly enlarged. Solid fish stocking for enlargement manfish range 100 ekor/m2. Given in the form of feed Tubifex worms or pellets to seed ± 2 months old. The size ranges are usually achieved by 3 to 5 cm. If feed and water quality support, Survival in the enlargement can reach 70-90%. The next seed can be raised again manfish until they reach the size of the parent or prospective parent with a solid smaller stocking.

Diseases and handling

Fish known manfish sensitive enough to attack the disease, it is necessary for good management to maintain the water quality and quantity of feed given. Some common types of parasites that attack the seed / stem Manfish include: Trichodina sp., Chillodonella sp. and Epystilys sp. While that infects bacteria is Aeromonas hydrophilla.

Several types of drugs that can be used to overcome the disease parasitek include: Formalin 25%, NaCl 500 ppm. As for bacterial diseases can be used Oxytetrachycline 5 to 10 ppm by 24 hours of soaking.

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