Saturday, March 13, 2010



10 Tips For A Successful Betta Splendens Reproduction

Posted: 13 Mar 2010 06:25 AM PST

10 Tips For A Successful Betta Splendens Reproduction
by: Laurentiu Craciunas

Betta splendens is one of the most wanted fish in everyone's aquarium. Breeding Bettas is not hard, though you might face problems at spawning them. They are oviparous fish, the male builds a nest in which the eggs/fry are kept for few days under the strict care of the Betta male. If you follow the next advices, you have big chances to get nice results of your Betta fish spawning.

1. Reproduction tank equipment: volume of 15-20 liters, a heater, a thermometer and air pomp connected to an air rock which will spread small bubbles. You need small bubbles because the fry are very sensitive to water movements and you don't want them to suffer.

2. The aquarium water must have a temperature of 28-29° C, a higher temperature will hurry the eggs hatching and the fry won't be fully developed. Keep the temperature constant using the heater and check it with the thermometer to make sure it is at the right level.

3. The water depth mustn't excel 10-15 cm because the Betta eggs are denser than water and they fall down from the nest. The male picks them up in its mouth and brings them back in the bubble nest, but a water column over 15 cm will tire it after few repetitions.

4. Cover the reproduction aquarium with a lid in order to keep the same temperature for the air inside the aquarium. The fry develop their labyrinth after about 30 days and they are very sensitive to temperature changes. The lid also protects against air flow which could ruin the bubble nest.

5. Select a compatible pair of Bettas. At first attempts you'll only want to get some fry and you won't be interested in colors/fins, but after some successful spawns you'll be more pretentious. So you'll chose same colored Bettas or even more, you'll look for developing some nice fins (double tails, crown tails, half moons, etc) but this is another discussion...

6. Introduce the male in the evening and only next morning introduce the female, considering that the male has already built the bubble nest. During the night keep the female in a jar near the aquarium and assure some light in order to make eye contact between the male and female; this will stimulate the bubble nest building.

7. The next day, after introducing the female, the Betta male will brutally chase her. That's why you have to put some plants in the corners of the aquarium in order to assure hiding places for the female. Also make sure you add some floating plants in order to help the bubble nest building.

8. After the first successful egg evacuation, the male (sometimes the female too) will take them (in the mouth) from the bottom of the aquarium and bring up in the bubble nest. You don't have to panic because this is a natural thing, so don't take the fish out thinking they eat their eggs ;)

9. A good pair of Bettas can spawn up to 400-500 eggs, after which the female has to be taken out from the aquarium because the male will brutalize her in order to protect the nest. Put the female, for a few hours, in a jar with water where you added some metilen blue in order to prevent eventually infections caused by the wounds.

10. After about 48 hours the fry will hatch and the Betta male will assure they stay together in the bubble nest. After another 2-3 days the fry will swim free. Now it's time to take out the male and start feeding them with Paramecium and/or Artemia salina (Baby Brine Shrimp).

This is it ;) 10 tips for a successful Betta splendens reproduction. You can find advanced information on specialized websites, books, etc, but following this article should familiarize you with the Betta splendens reproduction needs.

About The Author

Laurentiu Craciunas has been breeding Betta splendens for over 5-6 years now and he wants to share his experience with others too. You can read more aquaria related articles on his website:

udang galah

Posted: 13 Mar 2010 05:07 AM PST

udang galah

udang galah dalam foto ini adalah udang galah ukuran konsumsi, udang galah ini dipanen selama 3 (tiga) bulan yang ditanam pada ukuran tokolan, budidaya udang galah dapat dilakukan pada air tawar di kolam-kolam ikan yang biasa digunakan untuk budidaya ikan umumnya.

budidaya udang galah di kolam merupakan prospek bisnis yang menguntungkan, karena udang merupakan jenis bahan makanan yang cukup mahal, harga udang galah di kolam bisa mencapai Rp.50.000,- / kg ini merupakan harga yang cukup mahal bila dibandingkan dengan jenis ikan air tawar lainnya yang sering dibudidayakan.

budidaya udang galah di kolam akan lebih baik bila dibudidayakan pada kolam yang dasarnya tidak berlumpur banyak, kolam dengan dasar bercadas cukup baik untuk digunakan dalam budidaya udang asalkan kolam tersebut tidak porus.

Goldfish Diseases - How To Spot Them, Treat Them, And Hopefully Prevent Them

Posted: 12 Mar 2010 03:52 PM PST

Goldfish Diseases - How To Spot Them, Treat Them, And Hopefully Prevent Them
by: Mark Sturge

Many small animals and fish are susceptible to diseases and once infected, have greatly shortened life spans.

A goldfish can get sick if his tank is dirty, the water and oxygen levels are too low, the temperatures are too warm or too cool and if he is not being fed properly. Even if you are an excellent and doting parent, sometimes your goldfish might get sick for reasons unknown. Prevention and early detection are the best ways to help Goldie fight the urge to float upside-down.

There are many diseases that goldfish owners should be prepared to treat. They may not be pretty and you might be a little uneasy at first when attempting to identify them, but for the sake of your goldfish take the time to learn about and become familiar with parasite identities.

Skin Flukes are tiny worms that reside in the gill area of fish, consuming the skin cells and causing the fish to itch. Fish have a tendency to rub up against hard objects in attempts to relieve the itching, resulting in red and swollen gill areas. Relief and a cure can be found at pet stores.

Anchor Worm is a contagious parasite that attaches itself to the sides, head or mouth of the fish and is contracted by the ingestion of infection live food. The worm looks like a piece a green, brown or white thread dangling from the goldfish and can cause sore blood spots once it has entered into the flesh. Medicines are available for curing this disease.

Ich is the most common parasite that attacks fish with lowered immune systems. Introduction your fish to a new environment is enough to weaken immune systems and thus is a frequent cause of Ich in fish. Little white bumps will appear all over an infected fish, causing him to itch and gasp for air. Medication is readily available at pet stores and should be administered as soon as possible.

Tail or Fin Rot is a disease that causes damage and fraying to the fish's tail and fins, and is normally brought on by poor water conditions and high levels of ammonia and nitrites. Medication can be purchased at your local pet store.

There are plenty of different diseases, parasites and fungal infections out there just waiting to attack your poor defenseless goldfish. By monitoring and properly caring for your pet, you will improve your goldfish's chances of avoiding illness.

About The Author

Mark Sturge is webmaster of A site where you can learn all about goldfish care and the nasty goldfish diseases that can be traumatic for you and your fish.

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